Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Polaroid
http://www.myinkblog.com/create-a-vintage-polaroid-effect/
To create this image, I used Photoshop. I first started with the background. I set a gradient to be the necessary colors for the background (browns). I also made it radial. I changed the texture of the background and added two textured photographs to contribute even more to it. I next used the rectangle marquee tool to create the white border around the picture, and I added a clouded effect to it. I also added noise, crosshatch, changed the hue/saturation, and a drop shadow. I added my cross country picture by using the marquee tool, free transform tool, and a couple combinations of buttons. I then changed the opacity of the picture, the distance, and the noise. A stroke with a pattern was also added. This pattern was used on the white border, too. I changed the hue/saturation. Next, I linked three layers and used the free transform tool to tilt the image. I copied the three Polaroid layers and did a layer merge. Then, I tilted the new copy of the image and changed its levels. I repeated these steps to create one more tilted copy. I think the hardest part was getting the layer to merge correctly and creating the tilted copies. The easiest part for me was setting up the background.
Friday, April 26, 2013
Tape
To begin, I opened a new document and created a new layer. Using the box-selection tool, I selected an area the size I wanted the tape to be. I filled the selected area with a brown-orange color. Using a grunge brush, I added a lighter color to the area. I repeated this step two more times to add a variety of colors and give the tape texture. I used the eraser tool to go over the tape very lightly. I used many different brushes to shape the ends of the tape. I selected, copied, and pasted the tape into a new layer. Next, I used the burn tool to go over areas of the tape. This helped to vary their appearance. I opened my image and brought it into my tape document. I brought the picture layer below the tape layers. I put the tape into position and used the transform tool. I changed some blending options, added a drop shadow to the photo, and adjusted the opacity of the tape. I stuggled with the tape some, because there was some unneccessary white around them. The easiest part was adding a drop shadow and changing the blending options.
Thursday, April 25, 2013
Curl
I started by opening the photo in Photoshop. I chose this picture because it has a a lot unfocused areas that would be perfect to curve. First, I unlocked the background layer by double-clicking on the padlock icon beside the photo thumbnail. Using the Rectangular Marquee Tool, I selected an area in the bottom right corner. I drew a black to white gradient in this selection using the Gradient Tool. I deselected the image, went to Edit>Transform>Warp and drug the selected corner towards the center of the picture. Lastly, I added a drop shadow. The hardest part of the tutorial was warping the photo, because I needed to curve it without messing up other areas of the photograph. The easiest part was adding the drop shadow.
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
Ad
To begin, I took an image with curvy lines and lot of color and added it to my background at an angle. I chose a really fun, bright picture, because I thought that it was appropriate for teenage and young adult women. Next, I added a purple rectangle, using the text tool, behind the bright image to fill in the white area. I chose purple to match the purple, pink, and yellow in the bright image. I used the type tool to type "Spirit" and "Perfume." I chose a fun and free typeface for the word "Spirit", because I thought it needed to be interesting. I went with a more normal typeface for "Perfume" to put more emphasis on "Spirit" since it is the brand name. I added a gray and a pink rectangle behind the words to make them more visible on my bright image. I also used the Rectangle Tool to add a pink rectangle in the middle of my ad. I used the "focus" image of myself. I chose this because I thought it turned out nice and I liked the focus effect. I added a perfume bottle to the top of the ad. I felt it was important to show the product. Then, I added the saying "Live life, show your spirit" to the bottom of the ad. I think my ad turned out well. The hardest part was trying to figure out the best way to emphasis the type. The easiest part was adding the pictures. I think I fit the audience well because it is colorful and fun. I think these things also go well with a perfume called "Spirit."
Saturday, April 20, 2013
Sepia Tone
To start, I opened up the lower image pictured in Photoshop. Then I went to Image Adjust>Desaturate. Next, to Image>Adjust>Variations. I moved the Fine/Course slider down one notch less than the middle. I clicked on More Yellow and More Red each once and clicked OK. This tutorial was easy and quick to complete.
Vignette Shot
http://www.ephotozine.com/article/how-to-create-a-vignette-in-photoshop-18261
To begin, I selected the Elliptical Marquee Tool. I drew out an ellipse around my head and went to Image>Inverse. I made a Brightness/Contrast adjustment and drug the brightness slider to the right to darken the selection. Next, I duplicated my layer and applied a layer mask. I went to Filter>Lens Correction and adjusted the sliders. On the Layer Mask, I painted over the area in the photo I wanted to bring back. I created a new layer and selected the Gradient Tool. I selected radial gradient and drew out a gradient. Next, I changed the Blending Mode to Soft Light and brought down the layer's opacity. Again, I created a layer mask, and with black, painted back in some of the details of the picture. I duplicated my layer and used the Dodge and Burn Tools to lighten and darken areas of the picture. For example, I lightened my face a little. The hardest part of this tutorial was adding the gradient, because I took many tries to get it tool look correct. The easiest part was using the layer masks to paint back in some of the areas of the photograph.
High Pass/Grunge
high pass
original
http://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-editing/sharpen-high-pass/
First, I duplicated the original layer and changed the blending mode to overlay. I went to Filter>Other>High Pass and drug the radius slider to where I wanted it to be. I changed the blending mode to hard light to increase the sharpening amount of the image. Lastly, I lowered the opacity of the layer. The hardest part of this tutorial was deciding how much to move the radius slider, because I wanted the end result to look its best. The easiest part was adjusting the blending mode and opacity.
First, I duplicated the original layer and changed the blending mode to overlay. I went to Filter>Other>High Pass and drug the radius slider to where I wanted it to be. I changed the blending mode to hard light to increase the sharpening amount of the image. Lastly, I lowered the opacity of the layer. The hardest part of this tutorial was deciding how much to move the radius slider, because I wanted the end result to look its best. The easiest part was adjusting the blending mode and opacity.
Black and White
http://clicchic.hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Bring-Color-Back-to-a-Photo-That-Youve-Desaturated-Using-ANY-Version-of-Photoshop
I opened the image pictured above on the right in Photoshop. I went to Image>Adjustments>Desaturate to take the color out of the photo. Next, I selected the History Brush and changed its size and hardness. I painted over myself to bring it back to color. The easiest part of this tutorial was desaturating the photo and hardest part was painting the color back it just because this was the most detailed step.
Tuesday, April 16, 2013
Focused Shot
http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/create-awesome-soft-focus-effect-photoshop-2/
I started by duplicating the layer, and then, I chose Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur. I adjusted the blur and changed the layers of opacity. I added a layer mask to the blurred layer. Using black and the brush tool, I painted over areas on the face such as the eyes and mouth. I changed the opacity. Then, I painted over the whole face with a little lower opacity and then over the hair with an even lower opacity. I set a lower opacity on less detailed areas to focus less attention on them. I brought up the Hue/Saturation dialog box by pressing Ctrl+U. I moved the saturation slider to the right to make the colors pop. This really helped my blonde hair and purple shirt stand out more. The hardest part of this tutorial was deciding how much to focus and blur different things. The easiest part was adjusting the saturation.
Monday, April 15, 2013
Wrinkle Removal
I created a duplicate layer to start. I took the Healing Tool and adjusted its settings. I pressed and held the Alt key to get a sample of skin near the wrinkle areas. Then, I used the Healing Tool to go over the wrinkles and correct them. I continued to get new skin samples with the Alt key and correct the wrinkles. The hardest part was getting the wrinkle areas to look natural because sometimes the area turned out darker than it needed to be. The easiest part was using the Alt key to get new skin samples.
Nose
http://www.photoshoplab.com/Digital-Nip-Tuck.html?id=tutorial_Digital-Nip-Tuck
I started by drawing a selection around the nose area using the Lasso Tool. I went to Filter>Liquify. I used the Pucker Tool to curve the nose inward and pressed OK. The hardest part of this tutorial was getting the shape of the nose correct with the Pucker Tool. The easiest part was using the Lasso Tool to make a selection.
Changing Hair Color
I started by opening this image in Photoshop and going into Quick Mask mode. I selected black from the Swatches palette and painted over the areas of hair that I wanted to be colored. After I painted over all of the hair that I needed to, I went back into Standard Mode. I went to Select>Inverse and then to Image>Adjustments>Hue/Saturation. I adjusted the level to give the hair a light purple color. The hardest part of the process was painting the hair because it was tedious. The easiest part was selecting the hair color.
Eye Makeup
I started by creating a new layer and changing the blending mode to color. I selected a blue color and painted the color onto the eyelid. I painted a magenta color above the blue on the eyelid. Using the eyedropper tool, I selected a point sample from the bottom eyelashes. I created a new layer, changed the blending mode to multiply, made an eyeliner, and applied it. The hardest part was applying the eyeliner because it was the most precise part of the process. The easiest part was putting the blue color on the eyelid.
Teeth Whitening
To complete this tutorial, I chose to use the first method. I created a new layer and selected the Dodge Tool. I ran the Dodge Tool over the teeth to make them whiter. I also went over the white part of the eyes with the Dodge Tool. I struggled at the beginning of this tutorial because I could not get the Dodge Tool to whiten. The easiest part was, once I figured out the Dodge Tool, painting over the teeth.
Skin Tone
I started by selecting the problem area with the Quick Selection. Using the eyedropper tool, I got a sample of skin color. I created a new layer and filled the selected area with the target skin tone color. I used the Paint Bucket Tool for this. I set the Blending Mode to color and adjusted the opacity of the layer. The hardest part was adjusting the opacity to look the best that it could. The easiest part was getting the skin color with the eyedropper tool.
Tower
http://psd.tutsplus.com/tutorials/tools-tips/useful-applications-for-the-clone-stamp-tool/
I started by opening this image in Photoshop. I increased the highlight levels of the tower. I created a new layer and renamed it "Straight Tower". I selected a clone source by pressing down the Alt key while using the Clone Stamp Tool. I drew a vertical guide and changed the offset angle to 4.0 degrees. I clicked on the "Straight Tower" layer and painted over the tower. This goes over the original tower and makes a new tower appear that is straighter. Then, I did the details around the bottom of the tower and the sky. I selected a new clone source and painted over more areas of the picture. The hardest part of this tutorial was fixing all the the detail work because it was difficult to make it look correct in the picture. The easiest part was changing the highlight levels of the photo.
I started by opening this image in Photoshop. I increased the highlight levels of the tower. I created a new layer and renamed it "Straight Tower". I selected a clone source by pressing down the Alt key while using the Clone Stamp Tool. I drew a vertical guide and changed the offset angle to 4.0 degrees. I clicked on the "Straight Tower" layer and painted over the tower. This goes over the original tower and makes a new tower appear that is straighter. Then, I did the details around the bottom of the tower and the sky. I selected a new clone source and painted over more areas of the picture. The hardest part of this tutorial was fixing all the the detail work because it was difficult to make it look correct in the picture. The easiest part was changing the highlight levels of the photo.
Self Makeover
The first change that I made to the photo was smoothing the skin tone and texture. To do this, I duplicated the original photo layer and applied the Filter/Nose/Median filter. I added a layer mask and painted over some of the main facial lines. I reduced the opacity of this layer. Next, I created a new layer and worked on the color of the Iris. I painted over my Iris with a brown color and changed the blending mode to Soft light. Then, I selected the white of the eyeball using the Quick Selection Tool. I added a Hue and Saturation Adjustment Layer and lowered the saturation and raised the brightness. Then, I applied the Blur filter a couple of times. I created a new layer and painted an irregular shaped spot of white on the eyes where I wanted the highlight to be. To add more depth to the eye, I painted with black along the underside of where the eyelid is and lowered the opacity of this layer. On a new layer, I also added some more white to the inner part of the iris. Using a small brush, I painted a thin black line along the top edge of the eyelashes to act as eyeliner and used the Blur Tool on it. I created a new layer and added some brown colors to my eyelids to act as eye shadow. Then, I change the Blending Mode to Soft Light and changed the opacity. I added a pinkish color to my lips and changed the opacity. Lastly, I added some light brown to my hair. To do this I went into Quick Mask mode. I selected black from the Swatches palette and painted over the areas of hair that I wanted to be colored. After I painted over all of the hair that I need to I went back into Standard Mode. I went to Select>Inverse and then to Image>Adjustments>Hue/Saturation. I adjusted the levels to give the hair a brown color. The hardest part of this tutorial was changing my hair color because I had a difficult time changing it without effecting other things that I had done to my eyes. The easiest part was adding the eye shadow and lip stick.
Note: In the picture above with the arrows substitute pink with brown.
Thursday, April 11, 2013
http://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-editing/content-aware-fill-cs5/
I pressed Ctrl+J to create a copy of the image. Using the Polygonal Lasso Tool, I clicked around the post to make a selection around it. I went to Edit>Fill and chose Content-Aware in the Contents section at the top. To remove the stump, I went through the same process, except I selected it using the Lasso Tool. The easiest part was using the Polygonal Lasso Tool, because it easily makes a cornered selection. The Lasso Tool was a little more difficult, because it was a free handed selection.
I pressed Ctrl+J to create a copy of the image. Using the Polygonal Lasso Tool, I clicked around the post to make a selection around it. I went to Edit>Fill and chose Content-Aware in the Contents section at the top. To remove the stump, I went through the same process, except I selected it using the Lasso Tool. The easiest part was using the Polygonal Lasso Tool, because it easily makes a cornered selection. The Lasso Tool was a little more difficult, because it was a free handed selection.
Tuesday, April 9, 2013
http://psd.tutsplus.com/tutorials/photo-effects-tutorials/beyond-the-healing-brush-%E2%80%93-removing-objects-from-photos/
First, I copied the background layer and hid the original layer. I took the eraser tool and erased out the chair. Next, I unhid the Background layer. I selected the Polygonal Lasso Tool and selected an area of grass about the size of the first leg of the chair. I copied and pasted the selection into a new layer and covered the chair with the selection. Then, I merged it with the Background layer. I continued to do this for the rest of the chair. I made a new layer and used the Polygonal Lasso Tool to select an area around the missing shadow segment. I clicked Edit>Stroke to get a black line. I used the Polygonal Lasso Tool to select the right, left and bottom sides of the selection, and then, I deleted them. I added a Gaussian Blur. I used the Healing Brush to get rid of small edges in the grass. The hardest part of the tutorial was getting rid of the edges, and the easiest part of covering up the chair.
First, I copied the background layer and hid the original layer. I took the eraser tool and erased out the chair. Next, I unhid the Background layer. I selected the Polygonal Lasso Tool and selected an area of grass about the size of the first leg of the chair. I copied and pasted the selection into a new layer and covered the chair with the selection. Then, I merged it with the Background layer. I continued to do this for the rest of the chair. I made a new layer and used the Polygonal Lasso Tool to select an area around the missing shadow segment. I clicked Edit>Stroke to get a black line. I used the Polygonal Lasso Tool to select the right, left and bottom sides of the selection, and then, I deleted them. I added a Gaussian Blur. I used the Healing Brush to get rid of small edges in the grass. The hardest part of the tutorial was getting rid of the edges, and the easiest part of covering up the chair.
http://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-editing/spot-healing-brush/
I started by adding a new blank layer above the Background layer. Using the Spot Healing Brush, I clicked on the problem areas of the girl's face. On small areas, I just clicked on them. But on bigger areas, I dragged the mouse over them. I learned that the settings of the Spot Healing Brush can be changed to help get the best quality result. The easiest part of the tutorial was creating the new layer, and the hardest part was trying to get some of the more difficult problem area to look the best that they could.
I started by adding a new blank layer above the Background layer. Using the Spot Healing Brush, I clicked on the problem areas of the girl's face. On small areas, I just clicked on them. But on bigger areas, I dragged the mouse over them. I learned that the settings of the Spot Healing Brush can be changed to help get the best quality result. The easiest part of the tutorial was creating the new layer, and the hardest part was trying to get some of the more difficult problem area to look the best that they could.
"Baby" Truck
I started by adding a selective color and a level adjustment layer. I clicked to the top left of the truck using the clone stamp tool, and then, I created a new layer. I changed the clone source settings and "painted" in the "mini truck." I used the eraser tool to clean up the edges of the truck and used the Burn tool to burn areas of the "mini truck" layer. I added an Exposure adjustment and a Gradient Map. Lastly, I went to Filter>Blur>Blur.
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